The town of Glen Echo, Maryland was chartered in 1904, but its development predates the charter by more than a decade. In late 1887, Edward Baltzley began buying up land in Montgomery County on the bluffs and hills overlooking the Potomac River Valley. By late 1888 he had acquired over 500 acres from the Cabin John Creek and extending past Naylor's Branch (near present day Walhonding Road). The acreage included Fairway Hills, Mohician Hills, Glen Echo Heights, all of what is now the town of Glen Echo, and much of what is  now Bannockburn.

Edward and his twin brother Edwin were intent on developing a luxurious, sub-urban, community of platial homes on the Potomac palisades. They opened a fantastic cedar log restaruant in July 1890 to bring visitors to the property, convinced that visitors simply seeing the land would sell it. The Pa-tow-o-meck cafe was an initial success, but caught fire and burned to the ground in 2-hours, less that 6 months after it opened.

Even during the bustle of opening a cafe, the brothers were planning for more attractions. Edwin's wife, Edith, was a member of the Washington DC banch of the Chautauqua Literary & Scientific Circle. Edith suggested that a summer Chautauqua at Glen Echo might bring even more visitors (and thereby sell more lots). The brothers agreed and began plans for a grand, and permanent, Chautauqua at Glen Echo. The Chautauqua was a great success for one season, but never reopened due to complex economic circumstances.

 Part of the Chautauqua plans included an assortment of small lots adjacent to the Chautauqua campus. The lots were primarily intended as camp sites for use during the Chautauqua season (June through August) and were under the jurisdiction of the Chautauqua organization. The lots were appropriately sized for cunstruction of a tent platform, to keep out of the summer mud, and perhaps an outhouse (though early plans were underway for a complete sewage system). Many lots sold that first season, with some people buying multiple adjacent lots with plans to build summer cottages. After the Chautauqua failed, lot sales ground to a halt, those lots that did sell sold at bargain prices. The Baltzleys completed the sewage system, hopeful of renewed interest in land sales.

 Over the following years, from 1892 until 1903, a number of families built cottages and moved in year-round, creating a growing community. Many of the residents worked at the fledgeling amusement park which was growing among the buildings of the Chautauqua campus. The Chautauqua had a Post Office for the 1891 season, but there are no records of one for the period from 1892 until 1897, when a Post Office was opened in one of the old Chautauqua buildings. Transportation was an impediment to growth, so the Baltzleys along with other Washington business men chartered the West Washington & Great Falls Electric Railroad Company and built a trolley line to Glen Echo along the Potomac River from Georgetown in DC. Taking advantage of the trolley line, Clara Barton, the founder of the Amerian Cross, moved to Glen Echo in 1897 where she lived until her death in 1912. Barton enthuastically endorsed Glen Echo as a healthy place to live, trying to dispel false rumors of rampant malaria.

 By 1904 residents had decided it was time to incorporate and the town of Glen Echo was chartered. Within a few years the town and the amusement park were locking horns, despite the fact that many town residents gained their livelyhood from the amusement park. Conflicts arose over water rights due to several years of severe droughts, and over Sunday activities at the park. The town filed complaints with the county about the park being open and offering amusements on Sunday in violation of local blue-laws. On one Sunday 110 people were arrested at the park including over 70 town residents.

The conflicts escalated until 1911 when the mayor of Glen Echo and several town councilmen got into a fistfight at which a gun was pulled over water use at the park. Ultimately the mayor resigned and moved to the nearby town of Kensington.

 Between 1900 and 1907 Clara Barton and her assistant Dr. Julian Hubble, purchased dozens of town lots from the Baltzleys, often staving off bankrupcy for the brothers. In 1903 the Baltzleys lost control of the amusement park property which was bought by the Washington Railway & Electric Company who had been managing the amusement park for several years by then. Trying to remain solvent in their other companies, the brothers continued to sell town lots, primarily to Barton and Hubble. Hubble inherited Barton's lots after her death in December of 1912, at that point he owned close to half of the town.

You'll get a season's worth of savings and peace of mind by taking a few steps in the fall to get your home ready for cold weather.

So you've pulled your sweaters out of mothballs and found your mittens at the bottom of the coat closet. But what about your house -- is it prepared for the cold months ahead?

You'll be a lot less comfortable in the coming months if you haven't girded Home Sweet Home for Old Man Winter.

With the help of several experts, we've boiled down your autumn to-do list to 10 easy tips:

1. Clean Those Gutters  
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

"The rule of thumb is that water should be at least 10 feet away from the house," says Michael Broili, the director of the Well Home Program for the Phinney Neighborhood Association, a nationally recognized neighborhood group in Seattle.

2. Block Those Leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show "Today's Homeowner." Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. "Even if it's a small crack, it's worth sealing up," Lipford says. "It also discourages any insects from entering your home."

3. Insulate Yourself 
"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."

Don't clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here's Lipford's rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: "If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don't have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches."

A related tip: If you're layering insulation atop other insulation, don't use the kind that has "kraft face" finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check The Furnace
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It's a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Costs will often run about $100-$125. An inspector should do the following, among other things: 

Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get Your Ducts In A Row 
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.)

Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that's affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) "It's temporary and it's not pretty, but it's inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it's extremely effective," says Lipford.

7. Don't Forget The Chimney 
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

That said, don't put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. "A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year," says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. "I've seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys," he says.

Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. "Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep," he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, "anywhere that it's found." Why? "If it's ash, then it's primarily lye -- the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it's very acidic." It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says.

Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. "It's probably the single easiest protection" because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace's walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance.

One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney's damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn't in use.

Check out CSIA'S Web site for a list of certified chimney sweeps in your area.

8. Reverse That Fan
"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)

9. Wrap Those Pipes 
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili. 

Next, go looking for other pipes that aren't insulated, or that pass through unheated spaces -- pipes that run through crawlspaces, basements or garages. Wrap them with pre-molded foam rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation, available at hardware stores. If you're really worried about a pipe freezing, you can first wrap it with heating tape, which is basically an electrical cord that emits heat.

10. Finally, Check Those Alarms
This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works.

Also, invest in a carbon-monoxide detector; every home should have at least one.

By Christopher Solomon of MSN Real Estate

realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=13107899

Question: Why is it necessary to rake leaves off the lawn? 

 We spend a lot of time in fall raking leaves (or, if not actually raking leaves, then using leaf blowers, etc. for leaf removal). Is there a sound reason behind raking leaves pertaining to lawn health, or is it simply an aesthetic choice?

To get with the program — the deconstruction and recycling program — remodelers must think ahead.

Well ahead of construction, for instance, identify which cabinets, appliances, fixtures, and floorboards might be of value and to whom. Schedule accordingly: Deconstruction takes longer than demolition, and donation groups are often booked weeks out.

Think ahead also in terms of operations and marketing. Years before your competitors embrace “diversion” as a routine best practice, embrace it as yours.

“This is the way the industry is going,” says Lorenz Schilling, president of the Deconstruction & ReUse Network, a California nonprofit. By collaborating with material-reuse groups now, he says, you’ll be “dialed-in” to a practice that homeowners will find increasingly attractive as environmental awareness grows.

“Good contractors look out for the interests of the client in terms of saving resources,” natural and financial alike, Schilling says. Depending on the salvaged items’ appraised value, homeowners may reduce their tax liability enough to more than offset the typical cost differential between simple demolition (labor, Dumpster costs, tipping fees) and piece-by-piece disassembly.

Brick by Brick

Depending on the scope of the project and the condition of the materials, deconstruction can recover 50% to 90% of the materials from an existing structure, according to the Building Materials Reuse Association.

The challenges are overstated, advocates say. “Once you get in the habit of sorting debris and have established consistent channels to direct recyclable products, it isn’t very difficult,” says green building consultant Carl Seville. He once found new uses for almost all of a house that he had deconstructed, including 15,000 bricks that were reinstalled on a home nearby. “Total amount of waste to landfill was about six small dump-truck loads, versus 20 to 25 large Dumpsters,” he says.

Variables to Consider

• What’s of value? Cabinets and doors (especially solid-core) are almost always in demand, Schilling says, typically followed by windows, lighting and plumbing fixtures, appliances, and materials such as old-growth lumber.
• Worth the expense? Schilling’s website has a cost breakdown showing how deconstruction/donations can yield a net financial gain. Labor will likely be more, but dumping costs (higher in densely built areas) will go down. Some areas also charge lower fees for sorted debris than for mixed debris.
• Who can do it? Your field crews can learn basic deconstruction from various organizations; for a national training directory, as well as companies that specialize in decon, visit BMRA.org.
• Who can take it? Some remodelers sell materials through sites like Craigslist or salvage yards. Schilling’s group likes to work with nonprofit organizations that develop affordable housing. Most metro areas have operations similar to Habitat for Humanity ReStore outlets (www.habitat-mc.org/restore/index.html), which typically provide pickup services — given advance notice, that is.

—Leah Thayer, senior editor, REMODELING.

www.remodeling.hw.net/deconstruction/thinking-outside-the-dumpster.aspx

Getting a handle on your home's energy use is an important first step to improving efficiency. You can do a simple assessment yourself using our on-line tools, or have a professional energy auditor perform a more thorough audit. Then, use ENERGY STAR resources to get guidance on home improvement projects to enhance energy efficiency, lower utility bills, and increase comfort.

Start with our Home Energy Yardstick

If you have five minutes and your last 12 months of utility bills, use the Home Energy Yardstick to compare your home's energy use to similar homes across the country and see how your home measures up. Then, use the Home Energy Advisor (www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=home_energy_advisor.showGetInput) to get recommendations for energy-saving home improvements for typical homes in your area.

What's Your Score – What You Need to Know to get Started

• Your energy use and costs for the last year: You'll need your last 12 months of utility bills OR a 12-month summary statement from your utility company.
• Energy sources for your home: natural gas, electricity, fuel oil, propane, coal, wood and/or kerosene?
• The square footage of your home.

To determine your score go to: https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=HOME_ENERGY_YARDSTICK.showGetStarted

https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=HOME_ENERGY_YARDSTICK.showGetStarted

Bethesda Builders Ltd.
Custom Addition Under 2,000 square feet

Located on the northeast corner of the Rosedale Conservancy in Washington, DC, this Rosedale Cottage was renovated to maintain the architectural character and integrity of the home, yet at the same time, provide for the needs of a modern family. The area excavated to access the basement was eventually developed into an addition of approximately 350 square feet, which created room for a new staircase, wine cellar, and a full bath with a steam shower. Perhaps the most dramatic addition to the cottage created an extra 325 square feet of living space and opened the family room to spectacular views of the community park and the National Cathedral. Architect: Tom Kamm Architects, PC

The Maryland-National Capital Building Industry Association Custom Builder Awards

 The Annual Custom Builder Awards of Excellence is sponsored by the Maryland-National Capital Building Industry Association to honor and celebrate quality and excellence in construction, architecture and design by custom builders and remodelors in the Greater Washington Region. The 2011 Custom Builder Awards were presented at a Membership Dinner at the Bethesda Pooks Hill Marriott on May 26, 2011. 

www.chesapeakehome.com/2011/09/12/2011-mncbia-gold-award-winners/

RENOVATION, REPAIR AND PAINTING (RRP) IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS

Background

Lead paint poisoning affects over one million children today. Adverse health effects include learning disabilities, behavioral problems, and speech delays. If not done in a lead-safe manner, renovations and repair activities that disturb lead-based paint can expose children, as well as adults, to harmful levels of lead dust.

On April 22, 2008, EPA issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe work practices aimed at preventing lead poisoning in children. On April 22, 2010, the rule became effective and firms performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified, individual renovators must be trained by an EPA-accredited training provider, and the firms and renovators must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. EPA estimates that the costs to contractors to follow the work practices will range from $8 to $167 per job, with the exception of those exterior jobs where vertical containment would be required.

To become a certified renovator, individuals are required to take eight hours of training, of which two hours must be hands-on training, to become certified. This training is good for five years. The cost of this training is set by individual training providers, not by EPA. In addition, renovation firms must be certified by EPA or by a state authorized by EPA to administer its own program. Firm certification is easy; firms need to send in a two-page application to EPA and pay a fee of $300. Certification is good for five years.

Training Capacity

EPA has approved 561 training providers. Of these training providers, 342 are accredited to provide training in multiple states. A number of industry organizations are accredited training providers and are expected to train large numbers of renovators in their industry sector. For example:

-- A large window manufacturer and installer is an EPA-accredited training provider and has scheduled trainings in multiple states.

-- A number of non-governmental organizations and private vendors are EPA-accredited training providers and conduct trainings in multiple states across the country. You can search for an EPA-accredited training provider near you.

Even states that do not yet have fixed training providers in their state have had multiple training courses offered in their state.

www.epa.gov/opptintr/lead/pubs/lscp-press.htm

If you have walked into your kitchen, only to be frustrated with the old look and the old appliances, then it’s time to remodel your kitchen. After all, we’re living in 2011, and if you’re kitchen is still living in the 70′s, there’s a big problem.

Remodeling your kitchen may sound like a big task, but it probably won’t be a difficult as you think it will be. Also, you’ll find that remodeling your kitchen can also bring you many bonuses. Here are a few of the great benefits you can enjoy when you decide to remodel your kitchen.

Increase the Value of Your Home
One of the best benefits of kitchen remodeling is that it will actually increase the value of your home. Most people don’t want a home that has an old style kitchen. When you remodel, your home value will go up and it will make your home more sellable as well if you ever need to sell.

If you are planning on selling your home in the future, no doubt you want to do everything possible to get a great deal. So, when you remodel the kitchen, you’ll be investing in your home and making sure that the home value goes up.

You Get a New Kitchen
Another great benefit of remodeling your kitchen is that you will essentially be getting a brand new kitchen. If you go the whole way with the remodel, you’ll feel like someone gave you a new kitchen. This may renew your love of cooking and will make the kitchen a much better place for everyone in the family to enjoy.

Update Appliances
You’ll get an update in appliances if you remodel your kitchen, which is another great benefit. If you’ve been cooking on those prehistoric burners or an oven that is from the dark ages, you’ll be thrilled with the great new appliances you get when you remodel your kitchen. Now you may be able to turn out a dinner that is edible instead of setting off the smoke detector each time that you cook.

Get a Fresh New Look
A fresh new look is another benefit of kitchen remodeling. Tired of the way your kitchen looks? Perhaps it’s still decorated in the old oranges and yellows that were so popular in the late 70s. If this is the case, you’ll love the new look you get when you do a kitchen remodel in your home.

Add More Space
With a new design that makes the most of all the space in the kitchen, you’ll be able to add more space. You’ll get more space to move around and you’ll probably even get more space for storage as well.

These are just a few of the great benefits of remodeling your kitchen. So, why keep living in a kitchen that looks like it belongs to a cave man? Go ahead and start a remodel and enjoying watching your new kitchen take shape.

www.investmentpropertyhelp.com

Since 1947, AB Veirs and Sons, Inc. has been family owned and operated.  Our Veirs family has a long history in the greater Washington area, starting in Rockville, MD going back to 1677.  Several generations later, Samuel Clark Veirs built the "Veirs Mill," which was owned and operated by our family where present-day Veirs Mill Road is located.

AB (Alvin) started the paving company with one dump truck hauling stone.  From there, he grew the operations to a full service asphalt company.  The company was located off of Route 28 in Rockville, MD by exit 6 on 270.  The area used to be the Veirs farm, but has since been sold and developed into the Rockshire neighborhood.  We (Michael, Billy, and Jimmy) grew up working for the company right in our own backyard.  In 1980, the three brothers started managing A.B. Veirs, Inc.  Then in 1990, we achieved full ownership, and it became A.B. Veirs and Sons, Inc.  At that point, we moved operations to our current location in Gaithersburg, MD.

Throughout the years, we have had the privilege of working with some excellent employees who are the best at their jobs as we have ever seen.  Our current crews are even better than ever, and we have all managed to keep two things consistent: our commitment to quality and our corporate culture.  Our culture is best described as a large family: a lot of fun, strong relationships between everyone, and no fear of politely notifying another employee if there is a better way to accomplish the task at hand!  And we do have fun on the job - on a lot of jobs, we will be out there with our guys helping out as an operator, laborer, grade setter, truck director, or a supervisor discussing the plan with the owner.  We strongly believe that our culture and heavy involvement in every job has led to our consistent reputation and ability to produce the highest quality outcome.

Our current quality and attention todetail is higherthan ever.  We are the proud employers of the third generation of "Veirs" working in asphalt.  Their job descriptions include everything from laborer to operator to foreman.  This ensures the "grass-roots" approach to maintaining our culture and quality.

Our sense of pride is contagious to all of our employees.  This empowers every employee to feel a sense of pride and ownership in their work.  This combined with their experience and training proves them to be a huge asset to our company.  We believe that if our employees come first, you as the customer will get the best products and service in the industry.

 www.abveirs.com

Whole house cooling using a whole house fan can substitute for an air conditioner most of the year in most climates. Whole house fans combined with ceiling fans and other circulating fans provide acceptable summer comfort for many families, even in hot weather. In addition to whole house fans, the ducts of your central heating and cooling system can be modified to provide whole house cooling.

How Whole House Fans Work

The whole house fan pulls air in from open windows and exhausts it through the attic and roof. It provides good attic ventilation in addition to whole house cooling. Whole house fans should provide houses with 30–60 air changes per hour (varies with climate, floor plan, etc.—check with a professional to determine what is appropriate for your home). The air-change rate you will choose depends on your climate and how much you will depend on the whole house fan for cooling.

Sizing a Whole House Fan

Whole house fans are sized in cubic feet per minute (cfm) of cooling power. To determine the size you'll need, first calculate the volume of your house in cubic feet. To do that, multiply the square footage of the floor area you want to cool by the height from floor to ceiling. Take that volume and multiply by 30 to 60 air changes per hour (depending on the power you need). Then, divide by 60 minutes to get the cubic feet per minute of capacity your house requires.

[(Square feet______ x room height______) x 30 or 60/ 60 = cfm required _________. ]

Installing and Using a Whole House Fan

Installing a whole house fan is tricky and should be done by a professional. An experienced professional should perform your attic measurements and install your dedicated circuit wiring and, if needed, your new attic vents.

Attic ventilation will usually need to be increased to exhaust the fan's air outdoors. You'll need 2–4 times the normal area of attic vents, or about one square foot of net free area for every 750 cubic feet per minute of fan capacity. The net free area of a vent takes into account the resistance offered by its louvers and insect screens. More vent area is better for optimal whole house fan performance.

If your fan doesn't come with a tight-sealing winter cover, you should either buy one or build one. If you switch between air conditioning and cooling with a whole house fan as the summer weather changes, build a tightly sealed, hinged door for the fan opening that is easy to open and close when switching cooling methods.

Be cautious when operating these large exhaust fans. Open windows throughout the house to prevent a powerful and concentrated suction in one location. If enough ventilation isn't provided, the fans can cause a backdraft in your furnace, water heater or gas-fired dryer, pulling combustion products such as carbon monoxide into your living space.

Drawbacks of Whole House Fans

Whole house fans can be noisy, especially if improperly installed. In general, a large-capacity fan running at low speed makes less noise than a small fan operating at high speed. All whole house fans should be installed with rubber or felt gaskets to dampen noise. You can set a multi-speed fan to a lower speed when noise is a problem.

Using Your Duct System as a Whole House Fan

You may be able to use the heating and air conditioning ducts in your home as a means of whole house ventilation. This would involve installing an intake duct to pull air into an attic-mounted system that directs the air into your heating and cooling ducts. A damper would control exhaust air from your home into the attic. Check with a local professional to find out if this option is right for you.

www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12357

You may be wondering how to save money on your energy bills this year. Conducting a do-it-yourself home energy audit is a fast, relatively simple way to assess how much energy your home consumes and determine what you can do to make your home more energy efficient.

A home energy audit will show you where your home is losing energy, how efficient your heating and cooling systems are, and ways to conserve electricity. All it takes is a thorough inspection of the areas listed here and keeping a checklist of the problems you found.

Air Leaks. Stopping or minimizing drafts can save 5 to 30 percent of your annual energy costs. Some places to inspect where air commonly seeps from homes include gaps around: baseboards, wall and ceiling junctures, electrical outlets, switch plates, window frames, weather stripping, fireplace dampers, attic doors, window-mounted air conditioners and foundation seals.

On your home’s exterior, look at the areas where two different building materials meet, such as corners and areas where siding or brick come together with chimneys or the foundation. If you can rattle windows or see daylight around door or window frames, you likely are losing air.

Once you’ve identified the leaks, seal them with caulk, weather stripping or the same material as the original seal. Replacing windows with new, high-performance ones will improve your home’s energy efficiency and can you a break on your taxes. An inexpensive alternative is to attach plastic sheets around your windows.

Insulation. In older homes especially, the amount of insulation in the ceiling and walls may be insufficient for current standards. See if your attic door is insulated and closes tightly. Openings around pipes, ductwork and chimneys should be sealed. Look for a vapor barrier — tarpaper or a plastic sheet — under the attic insulation.  To check your walls, make a small hole in a closet or other out-of-the-way place and probe into the wall with a long stick or screwdriver. The area should be completely filled with an insulating material.  

Fill the gaps in any openings with expanding foam. Flexible caulk should be used to seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling. If your home lacks a vapor barrier, consider painting interior ceilings with vapor barrier paint. This reduces the amount of water vapor that can pass through the ceiling and reduce your insulation’s effectiveness.

Heating and Cooling Equipment. Inspect your heating and cooling equipment. See if ducts and pipes that are located in unheated spaces and your water heater and hot water pipes are insulated. Dirt streaks around your ductwork, especially near the seams, are evidence of leaks.

Have your equipment checked and cleaned by a professional annually. If you have a forced-air furnace, replace your filters as soon as they are dirty. Even if they aren’t, replace them every 30 to 60 days. Consider replacing units that are more than 15 years old with a new energy-efficient one.

Lighting. Look at the bulbs in your home and determine if a lower-watt bulb would work just as well for your needs. If you have an area where lights are on for extended periods of time, a compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) can save up to 75 percent of the lighting energy of an incandescent bulb.

A home audit is a great way to find out your home’s energy deficiencies and make simple improvements that will save you time and money in the long run.

National Association of Home Builders

www.nahb.org

www.taliesinpreservation.org/2011-centennial

As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home's heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system. 

Change your air filter regularly

Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.

Install a programmable thermostat

A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $180 every year in energy costs.

Seal your heating and cooling ducts

Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.

Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap them in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, look to seal any other ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house. 

Consider installing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment

If your HVAC equipment is more than 10 years old or not keeping your house comfortable, have it evaluated by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently or needs upgrading,consider replacing it with a unit that has earned the ENERGY STAR. Depending on where you live, replacing your old heating and cooling equipment with ENERGY STAR qualified equipment can cut your annual energy bill by nearly $200. But before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather than your HVAC equipment.

Ask about Proper Installation of your new equipment

Replacing your old heating and cooling equipment with new, energy-efficient models is a great start. But to make sure that you get the best performance, the new equipment must be properly installed. In fact, improper installation can reduce system efficiency by up to 30 percent — costing you more on your utility bills and possibly shortening the equipment's life. Learn more.

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=heat_cool.pr_hvac

A Maryland beverage-maker is testing your honesty today by offering you a drink and trusting you to leave a dollar.

Bethesda-based Honest Tea is conducting it's second annual Honest Cities "social experiment."  It will leave carts of its iced tea drinks around several cities nationwide, including the District.  There will be a sign asking people to leave $1 for taking the tea.

Hidden cameras will keep an eye on people today in a busy spot of the District.  The iced tea cart and the honesty test will be in place until 6:00pm.  You can watch the Honest Tea cart via live streaming video.  

How will DC fare compared to other cities' honesty?  In 2010, 93% of people who took a bottle outside Union Station left money.  That put Washington in second place in the nation, just getting edged out by Boston.

"Sometimes people put in more money.  We saw a guy put in $5 and took three bottles," said Seth Goldman, the "Tea E.O" of Honest Tea, in an interview with 9NEWS NOW.  "Some people have been on roller skates and barely slowed down to take a bottle.  You really see all kinds of different behavior."

Results of the multi-city honesty test are expected to be released Wednesday.

Written by Dan Guzman: 9NEWS NOW & wusa9.com

An automatic sprinkler system is a home improvement project worth considering. Not only will it help maintain a healthy beautiful landscape which you can enjoy with your friends and family, but it’s the most convenient and efficient way to ensure your landscape gets the water it needs without over-or under-watering. When it is properly installed and maintained an automatic sprinkler system will help conserve water too.

In fact, a professionally or DIY-installed automatic sprinkler system is one of the best investments that you can make for your home. Just ask anyone who has one. There is no easier or more cost-effective way to beautify your home, increase its value, and save yourself time and money.

Keep in mind, however, that there is more to a sprinkler system than just sprinklers.  System design and installation are critical factors that will affect your system’s performance and longevity. If you hire a professional to install your sprinkler system, a system design should be created before installation begins.  If on the other hand, you decide to install the sprinkler system yourself, Rain Bird can create a design plan customized for your landscapes specific needs.

Along with ensuring your system is properly designed and installed, Rain Bird manufactures rain shut-off and moisture sensing devices that can help you realize even more water and cost savings over the lifetime of your sprinkler system

So put away your garden hose and let Rain Bird do your watering for you -- automatically! You'll have greener grass, healthier plants, and much more free time to smell the roses instead of watering them.

Why Purchase a Rain Bird Automatic Sprinker System

• SAVE TIME: Your system will do all the watering for you.
• SAVE WATER: An automatic system uses less water than watering by hand.
• SAVE MONEY: Your water bills will be lower and your plants will live longer.
• REST EASY: The Rain Bird name is your assurance of quality, value, and performance.

http://www.rainbird.com/homeowner/education/benefits.htm

Expansion and contraction of wood is perfectly normal during changes in the weather. Wood is a natural material that seeks to be in balance with its surroundings. Hardwoods destined for use in home furnishings are carefully kiln-dried for that purpose, and they will take on or give off moisture with extreme changes in relative humidity. When the air is exceptionally warm and humid, solid hardwoods will absorb moisture and expand. Likewise, with much cooler, drier air, the wood will give off moisture and contract. This is completely natural, and craftsman design fine solid hardwood products to accommodate these changes.